Apache Summer 2012: June 2012

Apparently, owning an Apache is so much fun you won't even notice when your kids go missing...

While out east on the Deschutes Kerri and I decided to return to a park we had previously visited in our pre-Apache days, Horsethief Butte. We had camped nearby but failed to hike the butte for lack of time. Located on the Washington side of the Gorge, Horsethief Butte is a part of the greater Columbia Hills State Park which includes the butte and Horsethief Lake. Those interested in an AMAZING afternoon of hiking and imagination can get park information here, trail information here and see more photos here.

Horsethief Butte (uncredited photo)

Wonder why it is called Horsethief Butte?

Horsethief Butte is the sight of one of Washington's most notorious 19th century crimes. In 1893 an itinerant cow-hand and horse trainer by the name of Mordachai Arnold led a massive raid on the ranch of Ukiah Ellison, a wealthy cattleman and state politician. Ellison had previously employed Arnold at his ranch near Carson, Washington but fired him when Arnold was caught selling one of Ellison's ponies for personal gain. The shamed Arnold organized a raid on the ranch and absconded with 30 or so of Ellison's prized horses. Arnold, hunted by Washington's law enforcement, led his gang of horse thieves and the horses to the butte. Heavily armed and well protected inside the butte's fortified walls, Mordachai Arnold and his rowdy gang were able to keep the long arm of the law at bay for weeks. Ultimately, Arnold surrendered and it was discovered that he and his raiding party had survived those many weeks on the meat of the stolen horses. Arnold was later hanged... The butte became known as Horsethief Butte.

Not really.

At least that is what one would expect from a place named Horsethief Butte. The real history is as follows:

"For centuries, the park was the site of a Native American village. The Lewis and Clark expedition camped at the village and described its wooden houses in one of their journals. The village was later flooded by the waters of The Dalles Dam.

Oral history states that the park received its former name -- Horsethief Lake State Park -- from workers in the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers who developed the site. The workers thought the terrain was similar to that of horsethief hideouts in popular 1950s Hollywood westerns. The abundance of horses kept on the premises by local Indians apparently gave the workers their inspiration."

Kudos to those U.S. Army engineers for providing a satisfying name for this exciting park! It reminds me of a conversation I had with Kerri last summer about the characterful names of some of the natural wonders we visited in the gorge (watefalls, caves, etc...) I was thinking aloud about the state of language today and wondering ...if these gorge sites were discovered and named in our era would we be visiting or avoiding places like "Cray-Cray Falls", "Cold-As-Fuck Creek" and "Lame-Ass Canyon"? Would we be driving out to "Booty-Shake Beach"?

Anyhow...Horsethief Butte is a great place to hike and climb. Basically, its a massive basalt lump left after the great Missoula Floods receded and it makes quite an impression. Dramatic cliffs, petroglyphs and a maze of trails on the top leading to some inspiring views...made for a great two or three hours of adventure. And up on the top you really do get the feeling of being transported into a Larry McMurtry novel. Its worth the drive and there is pretty good camping there in the park, even for those without a wonderful Apache!